Tuesday, September 4, 2007

¿This is a quesadilla?

Growing up "Sonoran," quesadillas were part of my (almost) daily diet. In the northern Mexican state where both my parents are from, the tortillas were always made with flour and the cheese was a deliciously melted Oaxacan type.

Over time, I came to find that corn tortillas are also acceptable as is melting some ham in with the cheese. Yum-O! But as far as I was concerned, that was it. No fancy garnish, no wild flavors. In fact, I almost cried when I saw the Taco Bell commercial announcing their version stuffed with chicken or beef (But please, they use "panadero bread," what the heck is that?).

Much to my surprise, quesadillas do get fancy! On my trip to Mexico City in May, as I was hovering over the small attendees of a swap meet-style marketplace I saw this:


I know, totally unappetizing, but it was GOOD! The tortillas were made in front of me with blue corn and the lady stuffed them with things I never thought I'd actually let near my lips. I had one with huitlachoche and flor de calabaza. I guess this excerpt I found off of Food Timeline will help a bit in my explanation:


"Quesadillas are one of the Mexicans' favorite simple snacks. They are, in fact, uncooked tortillas stuffed with one of various fillings and folded over to make a "turnover." They are then toasted on a hot griddle or fried until golden. In many parts of Mexico they are filled with strips of Chihuahua cheese, which melts and "strings" nicely--a Mexican requirement...the farther south one goes the more complicated they become. For instance, in central Mexico the simplest ones are filled with some of the braided Oaxaca cheese, a few fresh leaves of epazote and strips of peeled chile poblano. Potato and chorizo filling--that used for tacos...--is also a favorite version, while the most highly esteemed of all are those of sauteed squash blossoms (flor de calabaza) or the ambrosial fungus that grows on the corn blossoms (huitlachoche), both of which are at their best during the rainy months of summer and early fall."--The Tortilla Book, Diana Kennedy [Harper & Row:New York] 1975 -(p. 106)


Notice the part I put in bold: farther south one goes the more complicated they become. Yeah right. I thought huitlachoche was bad. . .


This weekend in Phoenix (which is not south from here as far as I know), I decided to have brunch at the Cheesecake Factory. The Morning Quesadilla sounded simple enough, here's the description from their online menu:


A Flour Tortilla Stuffed with Scrambled Eggs, Bacon, Peppers, Onions,Black Beans, Cilantro, Cheddar and Jack Cheese and Tomatillo Cream Sauce. Served with Guacamole, Sour Cream and Salsa.



It was rediculously large. I couldn't hold it up with my two hands! I must have read wrong because I thought half of the things listed were on the side. Nothing had ever prepared me for that. My poor stomach is still punishing me.


More coming soon, but for now, beware of impostor quesadillas from the "south". . .

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